Tasharrafna Amman!

Amman is called the white city. It is immeasurably clear why. The buildings are all built from limestone as it is a symbol of status within Jordan (and probably other countries in the Middle East). The city sprawls over 22 different hills. In the valleys, you feel surrounded by what seems tall buildings as house after house pile on top of themselves, towering over you. On the top of the hills, all you can see are white houses and the occasional tower of a mosque. Beyond that simply stretches bright blue sky as the brilliantly hot sun shines down on you. This is picturesque Amman.

Amman should be called so many other things. Amman, the city of strange noises (Call to prayer, American pop music, and constant honking horns) Amman, the city of don’t-flush-the-toilet-paper-you-live-in-a-desert-silly. Amman, the city of friendly people and scary drivers. Amman, the city of its-blazing-hot-but-you-had-better-be-covered-up. Amman, the city of delicious smells and even better foods. Amman, I think, despite everything, I kinda love you.

On Monday we were given the grand tour of the city. For me and my group this meant first heading to the Royal Automobile Museum. It was interesting to see the snazzy old cars, like Rolls Royces, all the way to the snazzy new ones, like BMWs and Ferraris. Clearly, the king has it made. Next we went to visit our program’s building. A small little office area on the fifth floor of a building across from the University of Jordan. There’s wifi in the building, so I like it. (I base whether or not I like a place depending on its wifi.) Then, we went to lunch. Now when I say we went to lunch. We went to lunch. Our program took us to Jafra, a very authentic sit down restaurant that continued to bring us course after course until I was sure I was going to burst. It was delicious. I had another delicious lemon-mint drink and felt the most content I have felt since I got here. Next, it was a walk over to the Roman Amphitheater in downtown Amman (in the blazing sun, might I add.) It was a great trek, although a little treacherous going up and down. Totally worth it for the pictures, though. (It gets a 0 on my wifi scale, however. ;] ) Finally, it was off to the Amman Citadel with its ruins and Archeological museum. It felt so incredible to be that high up and see all of Amman. I felt like I was finally and for really (I know that’s not a real phrase) in the Middle East. Moumtez. (Excellent.)

Yesterday, we had endless amounts of meetings. “Death by Powerpoint” I think they called it. They told us all about daily life in the city - aka, how to not get ripped off by taxi drivers. Then there was a crash course in colloquial Arabic. (That was a sadly miserable experience on my part. I suddenly felt like I knew nothing.) After lunch it was a powerpoint on academic information (talk about syllabus shock). And then! It was information about our homestays. I got really nervous during this meeting, because they kept talking about how you can’t expect privacy, how you won’t be able to shower, how people will always be near you and in your face. On and on it went....Then, finally, they said, “Okay, go pack, your family is coming!” I’m worried, but remaining optimistic. I met my roommate-to-be, Saba, and together we wondered what our family would be like. Saba is super nice and I’m really excited that I lucked out once again in my life, having a fantastic roommate. Finally, it comes time for us to be picked up. A gorgeous lady and her husband greet us and introduce themselves as Diana and Raed. Diana is only four years older than me and her husband a few years older than that. They take me and Saba out to their car in the hotel parking lot. And wouldn’t you believe it, there is a pretty blue convertible. Yep, my trip to my host family’s home was in a convertible on the streets of Amman. Does it get better than that? I submit that it cannot. 

Their apartment in Al-Rabiah is no different in beauty from the convertible. Al-Rabiah is conveniently located in the center of everything in Amman. The main streets run right by their apartment, and there is cafe after cafe lining the street across the way. The university is 10-15 minutes by taxi and I could not be more thrilled. Another great surprise was that Diana and Raed have a little baby girl. She’s about a year and a half and is about at my level of Arabic - so that’s ideal. Haha. They’re a baptist, Christian family, which thrills me even more. Turns out they go to church on Sunday nights and I’m hoping I can join them! Their apartment is gorgeous and Saba and I have a room we share that has its very own bathroom and huge closet. We’re feeling incredibly spoiled right about now. Diana works at the American embassy and Raed is a free-lance massage therapist. They are both incredibly generous and kind. Their English is impeccable and I’m even more embarrassed by my Arabic, however, they have offered their help in that area. I can’t wait to really start mastering this language. (Ha, mastering. Funny joke.)

Today, we had our Arabic proficiency exam. It was a miserable experience. We sat in a room for three hours doing a 20 page Arabic exam. It tested everything - listening, reading, writing, translating, grammar. I only knew about half the vocabulary at best because it is a general Arabic exam instead of pointed towards the textbooks that most of us have learned from. Later that day was the oral proficiency interview. I actually enjoyed that although I'm sure I did not do very well. It was fun to finally speak some Arabic and force myself to do so. In the break between the tests, I managed to find a USB internet thing called a Zain Dongle. Success! I am currently in my host family's home updating! So, feeling pretty good right now. Our taxi ride home was ridiculously eventful. My friend, Abby, lives in Al-Rabbiah as well, so we decided to all three get a taxi together. Unfortunately, Jordanians do not drive based on regular street addresses. It is all based on visual landmarks, like the turnabouts in the roads, restaurants, or big buildings. Saba and I live on Doohar (Circle) Kilo. Anyway, Abby lives somewhere buried in residential areas within Al-Rabbiah, thus, she only had a street address. Our taxi driver became miserably lost. He ended up taking us a unbelievably steep hill, which, of course, the taxi stalled on. He was yanking the emergency break up and down and starting the car. I was certain we were about to roll back down the hill. Oh, and please note that this road had a do-not-enter sign which we, of course, had entered. A half hour later though (instead of the 5 minute drive) Abby was safely home and we were off to Doohar Kilo. Mish Mooshkalah. (Not a problem)

Later on this evening, Saba and I went to City Mall to find some hangers and other needed essentials. It was HUGE. Way bigger than any mall I was expecting. Four stories and most of it was filled with American stores (although many had the store names in Arabic as well). I was shocked. Weirdest of all though was that when I bought a cheap blow dryer (from China...great) at the Carrefour, a security guard stopped me to check my receipt that I had paid for it. I think electronics must be stolen here a lot. Our program informed us that if anyone from another country sends electronics here they will have a customs charge of 300%. Unreal. AND! I am getting really good at this taxi thing. It was supposed to be about 1 Dinar (Jordanian Dollar) to get back from City Mall. When we came out of the mall, a man came up and asked if we needed a taxi. Of course I said yes and he said, "Great, I take you. Where do you want to go?" "Bidee Auroh Doohar Kilo Lao Samhat." (I want to go to Circle Kilo, please.) "No problem, it will be 3 JD." And then I laughed and said, "We'll find another taxi." We peaced and found another taxi for 1 Dinar. Perfect. Now, I'm headed to bed, ready for another big day of adventures.

Well, that's a nice long update...(for you, Mum! ;] )
Tossbah 'ala khaer! - Good night!